Weaving in Himachal Pradesh has a long and intertwined history. It is just not only a climatic necessity. However, it is also an ancient tradition in the state. Central Asia and Tibet influence the techniques and designs, and its rich heritage makes it popular among tourists from all over the world. Shawls and woolen garments in Himachal Pradesh are handwoven and knitted at home. Factory-made items are also available in the state. However, they do not have the same value as handmade products. State emporia and garment shops are convenient places to buy these items. Don’t forget to check the trademark label for authenticity. To know more about the woolen garments of Himachal Pradesh, weaving, and the different variety of products, read on.
History
The most popular ‘Silk Road’ was the ancient trade route, formally known as the wool road. This ancient route connects the plains of Punjab in India with Tibet and Central China. It passes through several places, including Kullu and Kinnaur in Himachal Pradesh. This was the traditional main route where two types of artisans used to find here, including weavers of Kullu and Kinnaur. The weaving traditions in Himachal Pradesh have a history of almost 5,000 years old. The shawls of Himachal Pradesh are popular throughout the country due to their skillful weaving.
The art of weaving motifs on the woolen garments started in Kinnaur village named Shubnam and the craft of weaving came to the region from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, via China and Tibet. The weaving style of Kullu was first introduced in the 1830s when artists of Kinnaur visited the Kullu Valley. Earlier, the weaving style of Kullu was restricted to plaids, checks, and twill. There were no signs of motifs. Kinnauri artists shared their techniques with the people of Kullu, and then the weaving techniques of garments of Kullu evolved.
Raw Material and Weaving Technique
Wool is the raw material used for making shawls and woolen garments. It is regarded as pure in Himachal, and the garments made from wool are essential to wear during festivities. The main variety of fleece used to weave shawls in Himachal includes deshkar, which is a fleece from local and lowland sheep. The other type of fleece is bihang which is got sheared from the sheep of Kinnaur and other high altitude regions. There are several sheep breeding farms in the districts of Hamirpur, Chamba, Mandi, and Kinnaur and one can witness shearing firsthand. Other sources of wool are migratory Himalayan goats, Pashmina goats, and angora rabbits. During the summer season, these goats naturally shed their fleece. Earlier, the fleece from the endangered Tibetan antelope namely shahtoosh was also used, but it is now prohibited.
In recent times, the Kullu shawls produced for commercial purposes have a ground woven in chemical-dyed, mill-spun merino, while brightly colored acrylic yam is used to weave the border motifs. Pattus and dohrus are still often woven in deshkar and bihang fleece. Some dohrus are also woven from yak fleece. Wool is obtained from the underbelly of the sheep as it is finer than the outer body hair. Himachal Pradesh also imports wool from Australia. They also use chemical and vegetable dyes to color the wool in various hues.
The authentic handloom weaving technique is similar to those practiced by ancestral weavers. Pit and frame looms are still used and designs are embroidered by hand. Patterns on looms use techniques such as slit tapestry and interlacing (dovetailing).
Shawls:
The shawls of Himachal Pradesh are woven in Kinnaur, Kullu, Chamba, and Lahaul districts. To preserve their authenticity, the government patented Kullu and Kinnauri shawls. There are subtle differences between the shawls of these districts:
Kinnauri Shawls – There are three types of shawls, among which one is Chhanli, which is of 2 meters in length and 1 meter in width. It comprises motifs and shelved edges with a 2-inch border running the shawl length on both sides. Lengcha is another type of shawl, which is smaller in size with the composition of 1 meter in length and 1 meter in width. It is draped over the shoulder and fastened by brooch known as digra. The third type of shawl is dohrus, which has a plain or chequered base with a border of 15 – 20 cms known for its intricate patterns.
Kinnaur artisans are considered pioneers in shawl weaving. They are known for their artistic finesse. Their geometrical patterns have religious meaning and the colors of the thread used for embroidery represent the elements of nature – water (white), air (green), earth (yellow), ether (blue) and fire (red). Frame looms are mainly used to weave the shawls and the embroidery is done by hand. These shawls are generally woven in handspun wool from the local flat-tailed sheep or from yak tail—hair.
Kullu shawls – These shawls have got inspiration from Kinnauri-style shawls. The motivation comes from patterned chhanli, lengchas, and dohrus. The pattus is the outer garment in Kullu, which is available in a range of lengths from the 2.5-meter in length and 1.33 meters in width to 3 meters in length and 1.5 meters in width. Before the arrival of Kinnaur weavers, the pattus were woven in the pattern of squares and rectangles. These pattus are still worn by Kullu ladies daily. The number and type of notifs classify this garment. Traditional bridal pattus comprises white background and have highly decorated phools. The embroidery in Kullu Shawls is less intricate as compared to Kinnaur Shawls and a wider range of colors is used. The price of these shawls depends on the wool used. Pashmina shawls are more expensive than other wool shawls.
Chamba shawls (Pattu) – Tissa and Pangi are two areas in Chamba where shawls are woven. They are woven during winter months when going outside is not possible due to heavy snow. Chamba Shawls are woven on handlooms in wool. Sometimes one thread is cotton and the other crossing thread is wool, which is a unique feature of Chamba Shawls. The shawls have a bright border in traditional design and such designs have distinct regional variations.
Lahaul shawls – The most colorful shawls are made in Lahaul Valley. They are designed with Buddhist influences.
Woolen Garments:
Since Himachal Pradesh experiences cold winters, woolen garments are essential for residents. They wear traditional winter garments such as dhoru, jurkhi, Himachali cap, jhaggi, pattu and loia. These have religious significance and are worn during weddings and special occasions.
Nowadays, the Himachali youth wear modern winter clothes. No wonder it has become a cottage industry in the state. The markets of cities and towns are filled with socks, gloves, mufflers, pullovers, ponchos, sweaters, warm shirts, suits, and other winter wear. These are the main features of the woolen garments of Himachal Pradesh:
- Tweeds, stripes, and checks are common designs woven on the fabric of shirts and suits.
- Chamba scarves have a unique do-rookha embroidery called Chamba rumal embroidery.
- Women wear traditional pattu attire with a beautiful red border known as kushti.
- Thapada is an elaborately embroidered shawl that is larger than the normal shawls.
- Himachali caps are known for their uniqueness and style.
- Footwear made in Lahaul are warm and can only be worn at home.
Himachal Pradesh Tour Packages
Things To Do in Himachal Pradesh
- Himachal Pradesh Tour Packages
- Chail Tourism
- Best Time to Visit Himachal Pradesh
- How to Reach Himachal Pradesh
- Things to do in Chail
- Chamba Tourism
- Things to Do in Chamba
- Dalhousie Tourism
- Eating Out in Dalhousie
- Shopping in Dalhousie
- Weekend Getaways from Dalhousie
- Dharamshala Tourism
- Shopping in Dharamsala
- Fairs and Festivals in Himachal Pradesh
- Festival of Sair in Shimla
- Losar Festival Himachal Pradesh
- Minjar Fair, Himachal Pradesh
- Dusshera Festival in Kullu
- Ice Skating Carnival in Shimla
- Shimla Summer festival
- Hamirpur Tourism
- Himachal Pradesh Tourism
- Activities in Himachal Pradesh
- Arts of Himachal Pradesh
- Nati Folk Dance Himachal Pradesh
- Cities in Himachal Pradesh
- Climate in Himachal Pradesh
- Crafts of Himachal Pradesh
- Wood Crafts in Himachal Pradesh
- Cuisine of Himachal Pradesh
- Culture of Himachal Pradesh
- History of Himachal Pradesh
- Restaurants in Himachal Pradesh
- Shopping in Himachal Pradesh
- Kalpa Tourism
- Things to do in Kalpa
- Kangra Tourism
- Kasauli Tourism
- Khajjiar Tourism
- Kinnaur Tourism
- Things to do in Kinnaur
- Kufri Tourism
- Things to do in Kufri
- Kullu Manali Tourism
- Shopping in Kullu Manali
- Weekend Getaways From Kullu Manali
- Kullu Tourism
- Lahaul and Spiti Tourism
- Manali Tourism
- Manali Weather & Temperature
- Mandi Tourism
- Things to do in Mandi
- Nahan Tourism
- Things to do in Nahan
- Nalagarh Tourism
- Things to do in Nalagarh
- Palampur Tourism
- Things to do in Palampur
- Parwanoo Tourism
- Pragpur Tourism
- Rohtang Pass Tourism
- Shimla Tourism
- Eating out in Shimla
- Shopping in Shimla
- Himachal Emporium Shimla
- Lakkar Bazaar in Shimla
- Mall Road Shimla
- Ridge Road Shimla
- Tibetan Market in Shimla
- Snowfall in Shimla
- Shimla Weather & Temperature
- Weekend Getaways from Shimla
- Solan Tourism
- Spiti Tourism
- Chamera Lake, Dalhousie
- Dainkund Peak
- Gandhi Chowk Shopping Plaza in Dalhousie
- Ganji Pahari
- Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary in Dalhousie
- Panchpula in Dalhousie
- Rock Garden, Dalhousie
- Sach Pass, Dalhousie
- Satdhara Falls, Dalhousie
- St. John’s Church in Dalhousie
- Bhagsunag Waterfall
- Cricket Stadium Dharamshala
- Dalai Lama Temple in Dharamshala
- Kalachakra Temple in Dharamshala
- Namgyal Monastery in Dharamshala
- Nearby Places in Dharamshala
- St. John Church in Dharamshala
- Tse Choklilng Gompa in McLeodganj
- Tourist Attraction in Himachal Pradesh
- Adventure Sports Activities in Himachal Pradesh
- Angling & Fishing in Himachal Pradesh
- Camping in Himachal Pradesh
- Heli-Skiing in Himachal Pradesh
- Himalayan Motor Sport Himachal Pradesh
- Mountain Cycling in Himachal Pradesh
- Mountaineering & Rock Climbing
- Paragliding in Himachal Pradesh
- Trekking in Himachal Pradesh
- Vehicle Safaris in Himachal Pradesh
- Water Sports in Himachal Pradesh
- Buddhist Monasteries in Himachal Pradesh
- Gurudwaras in Himachal Pradesh
- Manikaran Gurudwara Manali
- Paonta Sahib Sirmaur, Himachal Pradesh
- Gurudwara Rewalsar Himachal Pradesh
- Hill Stations in Himachal Pradesh
- Chail Hill Station
- Chamba Hill Station
- Dalhousie Hill Station
- Dharamsala Hill Station
- Kasauli Hill Stations
- Khajjiar Hill Station
- Kufri Hill Station
- Manali Hill Station
- Mashobra Hill Station Himachal Pradesh
- Parwanoo Hill Station
- Shimla Hill Station
- Lakes in Himachal Pradesh
- Bhrigu Lake Kullu
- Chamera Lake Dalhousie
- Chandratal Lake Spiti
- Dal Lake Kangra
- Dashir Lake Manali
- Gobind Sagar Lake Una, Himachal Pradesh
- Khajjiar Lake
- Maharana Pratap Sagar Lake Kangra
- Manimahesh Lake Himachal Pradesh
- Nako Lake Kinnaur
- Prashar Lake Mandi, Himachal Pradesh
- Renuka Lake Sirmaur, Himachal Pradesh
- Rewalsar Lake Mandi
- Serolsar Lake Kullu
- Suraj Tal Lake Lahaul Spiti
- Pilgrimage Destinations in Himachal Pradesh
- Temples in Himachal Pradesh
- Baba Balak Nath Temple Hamirpur
- Baijnath Temple Kangra
- Bajreshwari Temple Kangra
- Bijli Mahadev Temple Kullu
- Chamunda Devi Temple Himachal Pradesh
- Chattari Temple Chamba, Himachal Pradesh
- Chaurasi Temple Chamba
- Chintpurni Temple Una, Himachal Pradesh
- Dhankar Monastery Lahaul Spiti
- Guru Ghantal Monastery Lahaul Spiti
- Hanogi Mata Temple Kullu
- Hatkoti Durga Temple Shimla
- Jakhu and Sankat Mochan Shimla Himachal Pradesh
- Jwala Devi Temple Kangra
- Kardang Monastery Lahaul & Spiti Valley
- Kungri Gompa Lahaul & Spiti Valley
- Kye Monastery Spiti
- Lakshmi Narayan Temple Chamba
- Temples in Mandi Himachal Pradesh
- Naina Devi Temple Bilaspur
- Nako Monastery Manali
- Parashar Temple Mandi, Himachal Pradesh
- Raghunath Ji Temple Kullu
- Renuka Temple Nahan, Himachal Pradesh
- Rewalsar Temples Mandi
- Rewalsar Monastery Mandi, Himachal Pradesh
- Shashur Monastery Lahaul & Spiti Valley
- Shikari Devi Temple Mandi, Himachal Pradesh
- Tabo Monastery Spiti Valley
- Tashigang Gompa in Spiti
- Tayul Gompa Lahaul, Himachal Pradesh
- Thang Yug Gompa Lahaul & Spiti
- Tilasangh Monastery Kaa, Himachal Pradeh
- Trilokpur Temple Nahan, Himachal Pradesh
- Wildlife in Himachal Pradesh
- Tourist Attractions in Khajjiar
- Tourist Attractions in Kullu Manali
- Adventure Sports in Kullu
- Camping in Kullu
- Mountaineering in Kullu
- River Rafting in Kullu
- Trekking in Kullu
- Religious Places in Kullu
- Bijli Mahadev Temple in Kullu
- Raghunath Temple in Kullu
- Adventure Sports in Manali
- Paragliding in Manali
- River Rafting in Manali
- Skiing in Manali
- Trekking in Manali
- Zorbing in Manali
- Nearby Places to Manali
- Gulaba
- Kothi
- Naggar Castle
- Rohtang Pass
- Solang Valley
- Religious Places in Manali
- Hidimba Devi Temple in Manali
- Himalayan Nyingamapa Gompa
- Manali Gompa
- Manikaran Gurudwara Manali
- Manu Temple in Manali
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- Jana waterfall in Manali
- Rahala Waterfall in Manali
- Rozy Waterfall in Manali
- Adventure Sports in Shimla
- Fishing in Shimla
- Golfing in Shimla
- Ice Skating in Shimla
- Skiing in Shimla
- Chadwick Falls
- Historical Places in Shimla
- Gaiety Heritage Cultural Complex
- Indian Institute of Advanced Study
- Scandal Point Shimla
- Shimla State Museum
- Jakhoo Ropeway in Shimla
- Religious Places in Shimla
- Bhimakali Temple
- Christ Church Shimla
- Jakhu Temple Shimla
- Kali Bari Temple Shimla
- Sankat Mochan Temple Shimla
- Tara Devi Temple in Shimla
- Summer Hill in Shimla
- Toy Train in Shimla
- Viceregal Lodge, Shimla
- Places to Visit in Spiti
- Places to Visit around Kaza
- Places to Visit in Dhankar
- Gramphu to Kaza
- Hikkim
- Kaza in Lauhaul & Spiti
- Kibber
- Komic Village Spiti
- Langza Village Spiti
- Lhalung in Spiti
- Tabo to Sumdo
- Tabo in Spiti
- Lakes in Spiti
- Chandratal Lake
- Dhankar Lake Spiti
- Suraj Tal Spiti
- Monasteries in Spiti
- Dhankar Gompa Spiti
- Key Monastery Spiti
- Lhalung Monastery Spiti
- Tabo Monastery Spiti
- Ugyen Sangnak Choling Gompa, Spiti
- Una Tourism